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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.